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Day Trip to Islay

Article2 min readBy Pi & LyntonKnockrome, Isle of Jura

Our friends at Portbahn Islay have written the definitive guides — they know Islay like we know Jura.

Islay sits ten minutes from the Isle of Jura by ferry — ten distilleries, Atlantic beaches, the RSPB reserve at Loch Gruinart, and the nearest supermarket to Jura at the Bowmore Co-op.

Machir Bay at Kilchoman, Isle of Islay
Fig. 1Vast, empty Machir Bay on the west coast of Islay, with Kilchoman Distillery & Cafe around the corner for lunch.
01

The wee ferry, and what's within reach

Ten-minute ferry to Islay. Distilleries, beaches, the RSPB reserve, and the Co-op. We lived on Islay for years — we know it well.

The wee ferry from Feolin to Port Askaig takes ten minutes, runs at least hourly, no booking needed. Just drive on. You're on Islay.

From Port Askaig you can go south to Bowmore (20 min), west to Bruichladdich and Kilchoman (30-40 min), or south to Port Ellen and Ardbeg (45 min). Islay has ten distilleries open to visitors - we won't try to list them all here. Our friends at Portbahn Islay have written the definitive guide to Islay at portbahnislay.co.uk.

If you're only doing one day, pick two or three things and don't rush. Islay is bigger than most people expect - it takes a good 40 minutes to cross from Port Askaig to Port Ellen, and the roads are single-track for much of it. A distillery, a beach, and the Co-op is a good day. Don't try to do five distilleries - you'll spend the whole day in a car and come back exhausted. Save some for next time.

02

Our picks on Islay

Bruichladdich (Lynton's old place), Kilchoman (farm distillery), Ardbeg (the peat), Machir Bay (the surf), the Oyster Shed, and the Co-op. Pick two or three and don't rush.

Our picks, for what they're worth:

Bruichladdich Distillery - Lynton's old stomping ground. Progressive, organic, genuinely interesting. The shop is excellent. Five minutes' walk from Portbahn Beach which is one of the most beautiful on Islay.

Kilchoman - the farm distillery. Small, hands-on, and they grow their own barley. The cafe is good. Worth the drive out to the Rhinns.

Ardbeg - for peat lovers. The cafe (the Old Kiln) is one of the best lunches on Islay. The distillery tour is well done.

RSPB Loch Gruinart - if you're into birds. Barnacle geese in winter (30,000+), hen harriers, golden eagles. The hide is peaceful and well-maintained.

Machir Bay - our favourite Islay beach. Big Atlantic surf, golden sand, dunes. The walk from Kilchoman is beautiful.

The Islay Oyster Shed - if you like oysters, this is unmissable. Fresh from the loch.

Bowmore - the Co-op is the nearest proper supermarket to Jura and you will get to know it very well if you stay for a week. Stock up. There's also a butcher's, a bookshop, several cafes, and the Mactaggart Leisure Centre with a 25-metre swimming pool - very useful to know if you have children and the weather is dire. We've spent more rainy afternoons there than we'd care to admit.

Places and people in this guide

Who to call · On Jura
Distillery
Bruichladdich Distillery

Bruichladdich Distillery is located on the shore of Loch Indaal in Bruichladdich village, Islay, producing unpeated (Laddie Classic), medium-peated (Port Charlotte), and heavily peated (Octomore — world's most peated whisky) single malts, plus The Botanist gin.

Where
Bruichladdich
Mar-Oct (daily)
09:45–17:30
Nov-Feb (Tue-Sun)
09:45–17:00 · Closed Mondays in winter.
+44 1496 850221www.bruichladdich.com
Distillery
Kilchoman Distillery

Kilchoman Distillery is a working farm distillery on the west coast of Islay — the only distillery in Scotland to produce barley-to-bottle entirely on site. It has an on-site café and farm shop.

Where
Kilchoman (west Islay)
Mar-Oct (daily)
09:45–17:00 · Open 7 days. Cafe serves lunch 12:00-15:30, cakes from 10:00.
Nov-Feb
Reduced hours. Check kilchomandistillery.com for current times.
+44 1496 850011www.kilchomandistillery.com
Distillery
Ardbeg Distillery

Ardbeg Distillery is located on the south coast of Islay near Port Ellen, producing heavily peated single malt Scotch whisky. It is part of the south coast distillery cluster alongside Lagavulin and Laphroaig.

Where
Port Ellen area (south coast)
Apr-Oct (daily)
09:30–17:00 · Old Kiln Cafe serves food Mon-Fri 10:00-15:30.
Nov-Mar (Mon-Fri)
10:00–17:00 · Weekend and seasonal hours vary. Check ardbeg.com.
+44 1496 302244www.ardbeg.com
Nature reserve
RSPB Loch Gruinart

RSPB Loch Gruinart is a tidal loch and nature reserve on the northern Rhinns of Islay, managed by the RSPB. It is Islay's flagship reserve for migratory barnacle geese (30,000+ birds arrive from Greenland each October), and also hosts eagles, waders, and other raptors. Free to visit with hides and nature trails.

Where
Northern Rhinns
+44 1496 850505www.rspb.org.uk
Beach
Machir Bay

Machir Bay is Islay's most famous beach — approximately 2 miles of golden sand backed by dunes on the west coast of the Rhinns. Dramatic Atlantic surf and outstanding sunsets. Not safe for swimming due to strong currents and undertow.

Where
Kilchoman area, Rhinns
Note
NOT safe for swimming. Strong Atlantic currents and undertow. Locals call it a "drowning beach." Admire and walk — do not enter the water.
Restaurant
Islay Oysters

Islay Oysters is a seafood restaurant and oyster producer at Killinallan on the north shore of Loch Gruinart. Dog-friendly dining.

Where
Killinallan
Check website for current hours
Seasonal variations apply.
Village
Bowmore

Bowmore is Islay's main town, located at the head of Loch Indaal, 15 minutes' drive from Bruichladdich. It has the largest concentration of shops, services, and restaurants on the island, as well as Bowmore Distillery.

Where
Bowmore
Note
Petrol available at the seafront garage. Bus connections (via Islay Coaches) to Port Ellen, Port Askaig, Portnahaven, and Bridgend.
Village
Portnahaven and Port Wemyss

Portnahaven and Port Wemyss are two connected villages at the southern tip of the Rhinns peninsula — 20 minutes from the Bruichladdich properties. The harbour almost always has common seals hauled out on the rocks. An Tigh Seinnse pub serves home-cooked food; book ahead (01496 860725). The sense of being at the very end of the road is real.

Where
Portnahaven / Port Wemyss

Day Trip to Islay — common questions

Can I do a day trip to Islay from Jura?

Easily. The wee ferry is ten minutes to Port Askaig, runs hourly, no booking. Allow a full day. Pick two or three things — Islay is bigger than you think.

Where's the nearest supermarket?

Bowmore Co-op on Islay. It's a day trip from Jura — combine with a distillery visit. About 20 minutes from Port Askaig. Stock up on anything you can't get at the Jura Community Shop.